A seat at the counter, a plate of Spain, and a masterclass in why simple food, done properly, still wins
The spot
First, a little backstory. The original Barrafina opened in London’s Soho in 2007 and promptly taught the city a new competitive sport: queuing. In 2016 it moved to Dean Street; today there are five in London, each still pulling lines before the doors are unlocked. And now comes Barrafina Dubai, landing in DIFC with confidence, the brand’s first international outpost beyond the UK and the first step in a wider GCC journey.
This is counter dining done properly with 55 seats, the right-on-brand ruby-red leather stools, marble and stainless steel, and an open kitchen that puts chefs at the centre of the action.
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The food
Barrafina reminds you what tapas should be: bites designed to be eaten hot, fast and in company. The buzz comes from the other side of the counter – the hiss of the Josper oven, and the cool, calm choreography of the chefs.
Onto the food and starting with the croquetas. These prawn-stuffed versions are unutterably good: crisp outside, molten within, rich and marine. Pan con tomate arrives on wide wedges of crusty sourdough, generously slicked with sweet, garlicky tomato, olive oil and chives.
The classic egg and potato tortilla divides opinion by design. This one is loose, just tipping into runny (the authentic way).
Ignore the blackboard of specials at your peril. On our visit it offered the crown jewel: Carabineros prawns. Two cardinal-red, deep-sea beauties, simply cooked, dusted with sea salt. Deliriously good.
Then there’s escalivada: coal-roasted vegetables, skins charred then peeled, smoky to the core. So good we ordered
it twice.
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The service
Friendly and impressively unflustered. Plates appear when they should, with concise explanations given with a glorious Spanish lilt.
What’s on the bill
Pan con tomate: Dhs45
Patatas bravas: Dhs50
Classic tortilla: Dhs65
Prawn croquetas: Dhs75
Escalivada: Dhs60
What’s On verdict
A thrillingly faithful, deeply pleasing Dubai debut. If there aren’t queues yet, give it time.
Details
Location: Podium Level, Gate Village 1, DIFC
Times: Daily noon to midnight
Contact: (0)4 234 1543; @barrafinadubai
Images: Supplied
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